It sometimes seems as though the neighborhood corner bar is falling by the wayside. There was a time when each residential neighborhood in Buffalo had at least one pub strategically placed within walking distance of just about every house. In parts of the UK, this particular breed of watering hole is known as a “local”, as in “my local go-to bar of choice”. It feels like that has slowly and quietly been traded away a bit. I have no evidence of this, just a feeling that there seems to be less of this type of place than before. Of the remaining local pubs, there are a few bright shining standouts: Rohall’s Corner on Amherst Street, Sterling Pub on Hertel Avenue, Eddie Brady’s on Genesee Street and the topic of today’s food review, Macky’s Essex Street Pub on Rhode Island Street.
Just off of Richmond Avenue and across from Left Bank, Macky’s Essex Street Pub (here forward abbreviated as Essex Pub) has become a shining beacon of relaxed pub atmosphere and casual good times. The night that I went in to dine there for this review, my dinner companions and I got caught up in a sort of pro-Buffalo love-in discussion with three complete strangers on the patio. “This city is really turning a corner; I’ve lived here for thirty years and I’ve never seen it like this.” “You young kids should buy houses while they are still affordable. What was your name again?” That’s at the heart of what a great “local” does; it builds a comfortable environment for people to decompress, have a pint and maybe make friends amidst a chat about the Pegula’s buying the Buffalo Bills.
Like any “local” the décor is fairly standard, wood trim, a couple of TVs permanently & silently fixed to sports channels, pool table and let’s not forget the bar. The interior of Essex Pub isn’t small, but it isn’t designed for a huge crowd. With the bar area, the front patio and a small dining area behind the pool table, I would guess that 25-30 people is about the right size capacity for Essex Pub.
Now, to the food… Another key characteristic of any great “local” is a small menu of great food that one can only get there. The first time I went to Essex Pub, I asked the server to make a selection for me. I told her that my friend and I would like the full experience of the best they had on offer, and she did not disappoint. We split an order of BBQ wings (absolutely phenomenal!) and then each got a Mac-Attack Burger (more on that shortly). Round that off with a couple Smithwick’s for me & a couple Southern Tiers for my friend and we left that night very, very happy. The night that I went back to Essex Pub for the sake of this review, one of my dining companions was a vegetarian. I had forewarned her that I had known this place for BBQ and house smoked burgers, so I wasn’t sure what vegetarian options they would have. As it happens, Essex Pub had a full vegetarian section on the menu; apparently my carnivore’s eyes had just been blind to it in previous visits. She ordered the vegetarian burrito and later reported that it was a very satisfactory choice. We also split an order of the vegetarian nachos for the table and while the nachos were entirely serviceable, I did regret not going for the BBQ wings again as they continue to be the stand out appetizer on the menu.
Let’s get back to that Mac-Attack Burger that I mentioned earlier… This particular line item on the menu warrants its own paragraph. The Mac-Attack is a hickory smoked burger topped with American cheese (so far so good) and a “Jalapeno Casino” on top. What is a Jalapeno Casino you ask? Excellent question! A Jalapeno Casino is a fresh jalapeno pepper cut in half and smoked which is then topped with water chestnuts, cream cheese and bacon. So let’s be clear that this huge stack of delicious gets piled atop your cheeseburger and run through with a skewer in the name of lateral stability. Some people in this world have trouble carrying the one, so let me disclose plainly that this burger is a bit spicy (you are eating a full jalapeno pepper after all). That being said, they do seed the pepper and that is from where most of the heat comes, so while there is a good amount of spice its not tears-in-your-eyes unbearable to consume. Also, the cream cheese has a neutralizing effect on the pepper, balancing the flavor out. A simple choice like this, by the chef, is what makes this great food and not an eating dare like suicide wings or anything from Denny’s.
On the whole, it is difficult to find any fault with an evening of dinner and drinks at Macky’s Essex Street Pub. The service is consistently great, as well as the food and drinks. The place tends to be populated with good, chill people. If you can, get there before the fall chill sets all the way in to enjoy their patio dining. Long live the local.
Macky’s Essex Street Pub
530 Rhode Island Street, Buffalo, NY 14213
Phone: 716.883.2150
Website: www.essexstreetpub.com
